STEPHEN FRIES: THE REAL BURGER KING

A couple of weeks ago, myself and my good friend (I think my parents think she's my only friend) Jerry went for our semi-regular Sunday swim/hungover mushroom float at Clissold Leisure Centre, then wandered over to 3 Compasses all soggy-haired, hungry and ready to try their burgers which we'd heard very good things about.

Being a vegetarian (GOD JESUS NO I'M ONE OF THEM) I was crossing my fingers, toes and hair that the only veggie option (aptly called Meat Is Murder) was at least half decent. So often are veggie burgers, well, a little bit shit. Actually, that's being kind - this side of the Atlantic, they're usually a heaping crock of shit unless you make them yourself. But this one? Oh holy mother of chickpea, it was so delicious I didn't stop talking about it for three whole days. 

My friend at work must have heard the story of 'the brioche bun', 'dreamy creamy dill sauce' and 'insanely amazing garlic and parsley fries' about 50 times as I recounted their deliciousness to my boss, the boys the other side of the office and the old lady who comes once a week to water the plants. People in this country really don't understand the importance of dill. Which is why our gherkins are so lacklustre. It's allllll about the dill. But Stephen Fries (GEDDIT?!), new leader of the burger pack is so aware of this fact and so in tune with the herb that it almost makes me weep. Dill is dill-icious. Get to know it.

So we went back to the 3 Compasses this Bank Holiday Monday for round two. I'd been wrestling with myself for a few days - do I get the garlic and parsley fries again or do I try the parmesan and rosemary? My mama brought me up to try new things so I went for the parmesan, which turned out to be like posh cheesy chips. Obviously a great thing but I'll be sticking to the garlic next time. Mostly 'cos I'm an anti-social garlic hound and the wee little chunks of odour were like flecks of heaven in my mouth.

Suffice to say, I'm a little bit obsessed with these burgers and meat-eater/murderer Jerry assures me the meaty ones are 'bloody great'. (She didn't actually say that but forgive me for not whopping my dictaphone out during a casual dinner.) This burger shot way up there into my top three burgers of all time, hanging out with the big shots like Magnolia in Austin, TX and P Terry's in er, Austin (I left my heart in Austin, okay?) I think P mainly got in there for having a drive-thru that served veggie fast food when I needed it most but whevs. A friend in need and all that.

3 Compasses, 99 Dalston Lane, E8 1NH

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